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Berner Training and Behavior Management

Puppy training tips

Puppy biting and resource guarding

The following posts appeared on the Berner-l in February, 2009.

Seeking advice on 3 Month Old Berner Puppy biting/resource guarding?
I have a 3 month old female. She play bites all the time. Even with our 2 1/2 year old Chocolate lab. She has chew toys to chew on and we correct her continually when she bites at us. I give her pig ears .......... my husband reached down to pet her and she growled and snapped at him several times. We took the ear away several times while telling her no when she growled.

 

Suggestions on how to manage puppy biting and resource guarding offered by Vilma Briggs...
 

A 3 month old puppy who play bites is a NORMAL puppy. This is what all puppies do, they will mouth you and each other in play. You stated that you "correct her continuously" for this. Sounds like it isn't working!! No surprise.

I would avoid punishment based training, especially in this situation. Violence only begets more violence.

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The best thing to do for excessive puppy mouthing is to YELP loudly in pain "Ouch!!!" like an injured littermate, stop playing, then stand up and turn away from her for about 5 seconds.

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(You basically take away what she wants, which is your companionship.) Then after 5 secs you smile and turn back to her and offer her SOMETHING ELSE to put her mouth on, an appropriate toy for her to grab like a stuffed fleece to tug and mouth. She doesn't have fingers. She has nothing else to grab with except her mouth. Play tug for a few minutes, then ask her to "Give" it to you and trade her for a treat. Don't just leave the toy on the floor, play WITH her - - make the toy move, make it fun!! Then lure her into a sit or a down and reward w/ the treat ......... then start playing again. Take frequent short little breaks like this to calm down periodically while playing, so she can learn to calm herself and maintain self control.

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As far as her resource guarding goes (that means the puppy growling when your husband took away her "valued resource" of the pig's ear, a real treasure) ......well, I would also stop punishing her for this, and strongly suggest you modify her behavior from a different approach. Right now she is worried and upset when you approach her, fearing you will take the treasured pig's ear away. And then you DO! Well, this will only make her MORE worried. A wolf or feral dog who did not protect his supper did not survive to make little wolves and little feral dogs, so his genes were not passed on - - Darwin at work, survival of the fittest. In our world today, a different behavior of course is a superior survival skill, but a dog's genetic material has only drifted so far from the original.

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Instead of punishing your puppy for growling, I would work to change the way she feels about you approaching when she has a pig's ear. I

would approach her and GIVE HER SOMETHING BETTER ......... as you walk up to her, toss a handful of cheese or hot dog slices or leftover pepperoni or chicken to her.

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She will be so pleasantly surprised. Then you walk away. Repeat this step at least a dozen times per day, over 2 - 3 days, until she looks up and is HAPPY to see you coming as she chews her pig's ear! Then you can go to the next step ........ hand her tasty treats (many of them) while you touch the pig's ear w/ one finger, then walk away. The next step is to actually take it away for just a second and give it back immediately, but only in TRADE for a half dozen tasty treats, one at a time in rapid succession. Be sure you are using really high value GOOD food as treats, so it is worth her while, not lousy old boring store bought "dog treats."

You will want to continue to practice this skill regularly for at least the first year of her life. This could easily become an extremely serious problem when she weighs 80 lbs and a child approaches her w/ a bone, or his dropped ice cream cone. Bites to children are often to the face, due to the proximity.

An excellent book to read is called "Mine! A guide to resource guarding in dogs" by Jean Donaldson, available at http://www.DogWise.com

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You Talkin' to Me? You Want Me to Do What?!

By Helen Hollander

They're adorable. They trip all over themselves. They are little clowns in fur costumes. They melt your heart. They stop strangers with a single glance. Puppies! Are they great or what? Months go by. What happened? Puppy is now a teen.

Their behavior is not so adorable. They are not clumsy but rather nimble. They are no longer funny, and instead of melting your heart, they are ripping out your heart. They no longer stop strangers with a single glance but, rather, bark and charge at them faster than a speeding bullet!

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Ahhhhh, 9 months old. What a great age!

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Up until now, puppies were more comfortable sticking close to home while still exploring the great big world. They were eager and happy to comply with their caretaker's requests. Many continue behaving like a goody two shoes, and continue to amuse their owners with puppy antics.

However, 9 months seems to be a magic number. They are now teenagers. Lord help us! Some teens are so full of themselves (or think they are)! They may totally disregard you or challenge what you say or ask of them. They continually test to see how far they can go to get what they want, when they want it, using their rules. Many owners complain that their dog is dominant. Is this dominance? I don't think so. You have a teenager "asserting" himself.

Is it possible that you slacked off a little on obedience training?

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Perhaps you may have been inadvertently reinforcing inappropriate behaviors. The result is that those undesirable behaviors are being repeated and unknowingly reinforced. Berner pillow playPerhaps new ones are appearing daily. Many owners get flustered, throw up their arms, and give up. Guess what? Score one for the dog.

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Now is the time to crack down and set new boundaries. Now is the time to remind your pooch that you are relevant.

As a trainer and behavior counselor, I see these behaviors in young dogs daily. I experienced the terrible teens with my own four male dogs, and I am living proof that you can and will live through it! What I usually suggest for new puppy owners and owners of testy teens is a behavior protocol for deference called NILIF (nothing in life is free). In this program, your puppy/dog must learn to defer to you. This is a most wonderful, dog-friendly approach to your gaining relevance. Your puppy/dog will learn that he must say "please.

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Simply put, your puppy/dog must sit or perform another easily done obedience request (for around 3 seconds) before he receives anything. Anything, such as food, a pat on the back, a belly rub, water, putting on a leash, being groomed, going in/out the door, getting a cookie, being permitted to hop up on the bed, chair or sofa-anything and everything! He will therefore be asking permission by sitting first.

In addition to NILIF, I suggest that owners start hand feeding their puppy/dog. Toss the food bowl for a while. Right now you mean zip, zero, zilch to your dog. Sorry, but it is true. You must reverse roles starting yesterday. You are the one who will be making the decisions, and puppy/dog will happily comply.

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Truthfully, dogs need and want direction. They need and want default behaviors for various situations. And when they are taught what to do in a dog friendly manner, as opposed to being "put in his place," they are happy, calm, and very compliant.

An owner/dog relationship should never be one of "who puts whom in his place." There shouldn't be a contest of who is more dominant. (I hate that word.) Nobody should be "put in his place." These terrible teenagers are in their place, behaving like dogs. It is now your job, as your dog's owner and teacher, to show him what you want, and reward him when he does what you want.

Dogs have to be taught how to live with their human in a human world, not the human in the dog's world.
 

Solid relationships are based on mutual respect and trust and a sense of feeling safe. Your dog relies on you to meet his needs: food, water, shelter, companionship (they are social animals), and a sense of knowing you will keep him safe. Not much to ask of you, considering what you get in return! The one-on-one time you spend in this relationship is priceless!

 

One of the best ways you achieve this relationship is by giving your dog a structured environment, a routine, and by giving your dog default behaviors. This is easily done by patiently showing your dog what you want. Positively reward him when he does what you want, and he will eagerly repeat those behaviors.

 

News Flash! Dogs really do not want to be the ones making the decisions. Why? Because, typically, they choose the wrong behavior and are then punished. What do you have then? A very confused, anxious dog who will offer all sorts of behaviors (usually undesirable ones) in hope of eventually hitting the right one. Very nerve wracking indeed.

 

If you give your dog direction in a positive, dog-friendly way (using lure and reward training), your dog will begin to come around. Remember: being positive does not mean being permissive.

 

This is the time when you must go back to training with your dog. Testy teens need structured brush-up work in obedience. The sooner, the better. If you feel you cannot tackle it alone and need to find help fast, my suggestion is to contact a professional. You can train privately or in a group class. Go to the Association of Pet Dog Trainers website http://www.apdt.com/. Click on Trainer Search (or call). I am sure you will find a trainer in your area or close by. Even if you have to travel a bit, do it.

 

In the meantime, many wonderful books are available. One of my favorite references is Patricia McConnell's booklet, "How To Be The Leader Of The Pack-your dog will love you for it." Another goody is Trish King's "Parenting Your Dog". You can buy these books from http://www.dogwise.com/ or other book providers.

 

Folks, take off the boxing gloves and start setting ground rules in a gentle way. Get lots of yummy treats and get to work. Your dog will love you for it. Remember: your relationship with your dog should be one that is built on and consists of only good things!

 

Helen Hollander, CPDT

The Educated Pup, LLC

Lawrence, L I, NY

Nationally Certified Member Certification Council of Pet Dog Trainers

Games performance puppies can play
 

By Brenda Sanders
Originally published in The BMDCA's Newsletter, 'The Alpenhorn', February 2006.

You recently or soon will add a new puppy to your life! This new little soul is going to be your first (or next) star in obedience, drafting, agility, or rally. But it's such a long wait until Star is 2 and physically ready for the demands of real training. Is there something more than puppy kindergarten class you can do if performance is your goal? Yes!!! Teaching a puppy words is a very easy and fun game and can reap huge rewards later on. Remember that your puppy is constantly learning, whether you think you are teaching or not!

For the first week or so, Star will have quite a lot on her mind: moving to a new home, learning where to go potty, meeting other dogs and people in the household, adjusting to the new routine. "Training" at this stage may not be very effective. But that does not mean you shouldn't be watching and learning.

Observe your puppy. Learn her rhythms. Is she all fired up in the morning, or does an energy burst come just when you settle in front the TV (or both)? You will want to take advantage of her up times for teaching. Observe her reactions to other people and dogs. How soft or confident is she? These reactions are clues to you

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on how you will have to handle mistakes in the future. Does she startle and how much at loud noises? Or a car passing? Or a paper blowing across the yard? These are clues to her level of sound and sight sensitivity and will allow you to anticipate later problems. Watch for behaviors Star offers on her own. Does she bark when she goes to the door? Does she sit in front of you when you're fixing her meals? Does she put a paw on you when you sit in your chair? These behaviors will become "speak," "front," and "shake" that you will train.

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Once you have identified several behaviors that Star does on her own, it is time to teach her words. Always have treats in your pockets or nearby in every area of the house where Star is with you. You are fixing her dinner. When she sits in front, you say, "front, good front," and treat. Every time she sits in front of you for a few days, name and reward. After a few days, when she barks at the door, you say, "speak, good speak," and treat. In another few days, name and reward "shake" when she puts a paw on you. Most puppies will, by the end of a week, be rushing to perform the behaviors and get the reward. They are catching on that certain words mean a reward. (You can also use a clicker instead of the word. I'm not coordinated enough to handle something else in my hands!) When you see this reaction, you are ready to move on.

The next step is to ask for one of these behaviors immediately before Star performs it. You will have to be quick! Right before she sits, you say, "front." When she does, repeat "front, good front" and treat. Rather than just receiving a reward for something she does, Star has just been rewarded for a response to a word from you. Practice with all three of the words you chose.

When you are sure Star knows the three words and is performing them when asked, the next step is to ask for the behavior in a different context. You're standing at the desk, reading your mail, and Star is with you. Ask her to "front." If she does, "front, good front" and treat. Now she knows the word in a context other than mealtime. (If she doesn't front, continue the previous step for a few more days). Ask for all three behaviors in different situations. When you're getting a reliable response to all three, you're ready for the next step.

You will need Star's absolute favorite treat and another one that is good, but not the high value of the first one. Example from my house: buffalo jerky is the best ever; string cheese is good, but it is not jerky! Make sure Star knows jerky is available. You've taught her "speak" at the door, and she does it reliably in other locations. Now go to the door and ask for "front." Almost surely Star will "speak." You respond, "speak, good speak," and reward with cheese. Ask for "front." If Star speaks again, reward with cheese. She will be very puzzled at this point, wondering why she isn't getting the jerky she knows you have! On the third try, ask for "speak," and name and reward with jerky so she knows it is possible to get the best reward. Then return to asking for "front." Try to not laugh as you watch puppy brain try to figure out how to get that jerky! Why do I do this exercise? I want my dogs to be unafraid of making mistakes. You've all seen dogs in Utility that bring back the wrong article, or in agility that get called back to repeat an obstacle, and just shut down. They can't handle making mistakes. I try to teach my puppy, "Ok, good try. Here's a little reward for the try, but let's try again for the big reward. A mistake is no big deal; we just have to try again." Eventually, of course, you will stop rewarding incorrect behaviors, but Star is a baby, and now you want to teach that learning is fun.

Begin combining behaviors. Ask for "speak" then "shake" before rewarding. Then "shake," "speak," "front" before rewarding. These brain exercises can and should be worked many times a day rather than in one concentrated session.

Once Star understands the concept that different words have different meanings, you can work on increasing her vocabulary. Give names to her toys. Begin with two or three: "Pinkie" "Bear" "Spider." Later, you can use "find metal" and "find leather" when teaching scent articles. In agility, "teeter" "tunnel" "A frame" will all have associations. You are limited only by your imagination. Does Star follow you into the bathroom or the walk-in closet? Teach "back" as the way to get out. When you need to back up your cart or perform Back Up 3 Steps in Rally, you will have laid the foundation at 3 or 4 months of age. I have even taught both of my dogs "new word" to cue them that 1 am asking them to learn something different!

In addition to training the brain, you can do many things to train the body as well, and most are probably familiar to you. Lay different surfaces on the floor or in the yard (a piece of cardboard, a tarp, some hardware cloth) so Star can practice walking on different surfaces. Use ground poles or a ladder on the ground so she can learn how to place her rear feet.

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Utility go-outs are a great puppy exercise. Place a treat on a target 6 to 8 feet in front of Star and send her to it. If you need to increase drive, have someone restrain her or put her in a crate and really rile her up before you let her go. Gradually increase the distance you are sending her. Teach agility lateral send-outs by using a sturdy garbage can or some other barrier (a kitchen island works great). Place the treat on the target on the left side of the barrier, approach with Star from the right side, and send her left to the target while you run by the right side and call her to you on the far side of the barrier. "Follow my hand" exercises can teach turn with, turn away, switch sides, cross behind, all of which become the foundation for many agility and rally moves. Teach these and lateral sends from both left and right sides if your goal is agility. Most puppies love tunnels or can quickly learn to enjoy them. Have another person restrain Star at the tunnel entrance while you go to the opposite end and call her. Don't always gather her up as soon as she gets out of the tunnel or she may learn to not drive on to the next

obstacle. Instead, run past the tunnel and teach her to come to the hand with the treat.

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Should you take Star to puppy classes? If you have a good puppy agility class in your area, I would say absolutely yes, even if agility is not in your future plans. A good puppy agility class focuses on socialization, controlled walking, following hand movements, walking up and down baby-sized ramps, tunnels, the table and box (UKC obstacle), ground poles, sit, stay, recalls, and others. The class I attend runs for 16 weeks, and jumps are limited to cavaletti style in the last 4 sessions and are never more than 4 to 8 inches high. I personally would not attend a puppy agility class that puts a lot of emphasis on jumping and weave poles or starts with obstacles at full height. An appropriate class is a wonderful confidence booster no matter what your future goals. Always observe some classes before you sign up, and note what is being emphasized.

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If you don't have access to a puppy agility class, it is somewhat easier to find puppy kindergartens. Again, if you have a good one available by all means use it. But even a not-so-good class can be useful to you. I would absolutely avoid any class that uses harsh physical corrections with puppies or relies on alpha rolls. What if there are some good and some not so good things about the classes available to you? Talk with the instructor if possible before signing up, and ask whether you may choose to not participate in some aspects of the class. If the class spends a lot of time heeling in circles with jerk and release corrections, find a corner or go out to the middle of the floor and work on your 2 to 3 steps of attentive heeling with Star. If the instructor is doing the stand for exam with each puppy and everyone else is just standing around waiting, practice sits or fronts with Star while waiting your turn. If the instructor is holding puppies down and forcibly trimming their nails, just say you don't need help with that. (You have been trimming nails since Star came home, right, even if it's just one nail per day?)
 

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I was recently in a class where the puppies were asked to do a recall from halfway across the room between two rows of motion-activated toys that moved, lit up, and made noise. If the toys had been gradually introduced one at a time while the puppies were heeling, that might have been appropriate, but in this situation I politely told the instructor my puppy wasn't ready for this exercise, and we didn't participate. You need to know what is appropriate for you and Star, but the chance to work in a new location with other dogs and people is an important opportunity. Remember that the instructor is in charge of the class, but only you are in charge of you relationship with Star. Know your puppy and what she can handle, make learning fun, and enjoy that new puppy! The time passes all too quickly.

 

Brenda Sanders lives in Rockton Illinois. Her first Bernese Mountain dog, who joined her in 1985, managed to train Brenda well enough to earn 10 titles. Five Bernese since then have earned 45 titles through CDX, AXP, and UACHX, as well as a TDX, two conformation championships, and two therapy dog certifications. Currently, Brenda lives with two Berners, both of whom compete in agility and rally obedience.

Living in harmony with dogs


by Ruth Reynolds
October 21, 2008
Originally published in The BMDCA's Newsletter, 'The Alpenhorn', December, 2008.

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How we avoid confrontations between dogs in the multi-dog household and in the household whose population is changing on an irregular basis varies from home to home. Peacekeeping techniques are abundant and as different between successfully peaceful households as are their inhabitants. For some dog managers it seems to come effortlessly. However, as most breeders and others who live with and manage a larger group of dogs can attest, pinpointing the specific details of peacekeeping management requires a great deal of thought. This becomes apparent when we prepare to leave our dogs in another's care, or worse, leave them in another's care without preparation.

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Understanding some basic principles of pack management may help identify what is necessary to achieve peace in the family with multiple dogs. Recognizing what we do already that achieves the results we want gives us the option to do more of it intentionally. Recognizing what we do or don't do that produces undesirable results gives us the option to change that intentionally as well.

Sound like a lot of work? It's not really. It requires some thought however. First comes thinking about the learning opportunities our dogs have in daily life with us. Second comes identifying and selecting specific events in our daily actions that create opportunities for our dogs to behave in a way we prefer. Part of that process includes identifying what kind of reward an individual dog needs to set a specific response as their everyday chosen behavior because it produced the result THEY want. And, third but not least, is applying thought to identifying these opportunities which are abundant already in the course of our daily lives. Meeting each animal's need to serve us is what it takes to live with ease in a peaceful household with dogs.

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Styles of pack management

Always present in the peaceful household is a human's intolerance for aggression.
In addition one of these is present as well:

A) adequate preventive training using methods incorporating mutual respect
B) isolation of disagreeing individuals from one another

In dog pack ownership, one can manage dogs via the A style or the B style. The latter is very difficult in a household situation and more easily achieved in a kennel situation. Means of isolation in a non-kennel

situation include cordoning off areas of the home as inaccessible to individuals and thus creating intense boundary lines for pack members to argue over or respect. Often developing in the individual dog the respect for the boundaries requires as much training as developing respect without the boundaries. However, the physical barriers used seem to give some owners a sense of ease in their daily routine.

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There are households in which a particular dog is removed to a place of safety such as a crate inside or kennel outside when no human supervision is present due to the animal's propensity to get into trouble when left to its own devices. In another home all the dogs run loose together in the home when the owner is away. The dog who must be crated to keep out of trouble is a higher training maintenance dog than the owner either realizes or is willing to train to make it a reliable dog.
 

How to get started

1. RESPECT

A home in which the inhabitants respect one another and practice mutual respect is a peaceful home. Given the opportunity to serve us in a respectful manner and to be rewarded in a way meaningful to them, most recalcitrant dogs' behavior is observably improved.

 

2. TRAINING OCCURS INADVERTANTLY

Training comes in many forms and is often reciprocal between dogs and the people they manage. Most training occurs inadvertently and without intent on our parts. Our dogs learn most of what they know simply through experience with results. If going away from the dinner table and laying down gets a better result than sitting at the table and begging, the dog soon learns to go lay down. The well trained human, stepping over the sleeping dog assures the dog's success as a trainer of humans and its elevated position in the hierarchy as well. Repetitions with positive results build consistency.

Keys to successful pack management with ease lay in A) identifying opportunities for our dogs to respond to all interactions in an acceptable way B) our rewarding them for their desired behavior.

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3. FOCUS ON ONE AT A TIME

Isolating each animal for some one on one daily interaction with you is a place to start. Teaching simple commands like sit, down, stay, come, wait (at all doorways), and any tricks you might want to incorporate like shaking paws, wait to get the treat off the floor, find the hidden treat or others, gives your dog the skills he will need to serve you.

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4. USE VERY SHORT TRAINING OPPORTUNITIES

If you spend no time each day working with your dog, and he receives no intentional consistent positive reinforcement, it's easy to start a new training

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regime. If you'll interact with your dog for 3 seconds three times a day, you've increased his training and serving opportunities tremendously. Have him wait, sit or speak on command 10 times a day and you've increased his training opportunities ten times. It is likely more effective for you to LIVE IN TRAINING WITH your dog than for you to give him ten minutes of rote exercises daily.

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5. ESSENTIAL RESPECT-BUILDING SKILLS TO TEACH

  • Always have your dog wait at doorways, letting you pass through first.

  • Always have your dog wait to dive into his dinner until you give him an okay to proceed·

  • Ask your dog to turn his attention to you 10 times a day and praise him softly and quickly for doing so.

  • Have your dog "watch me" for 3 seconds before praising and releasing verbally. Increase over time to ten seconds.

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It's Rarely Hopeless

It often takes a series of altercations between dogs or dogs and people for an owner to realize action must be taken before someone is hurt seriously. When a dog behaviorist or trainer is called in for consultation and reveals there's not a magic cure to alleviate the problem, owners make choices on the changes they will make. Sometimes dogs are rehomed. Sometimes training ensues. Sometimes changes come too late and dogs or people are victimized.

If you're midst a near crisis situation at this point and isolation has become a way of life for your dog(s), it is probably a good idea to seek some professional help. Another set of eyes can likely see things you're inadvertently doing that encourage the behavior you want to discourage. While you're lining up some professional help, start working with each dog 

individually for a few moments several times a day. Begin with the most challenging dog. This one needs the most work today and probably always. Exercises that require self restraint are the best. After all you're seeking to develop self discipline in your canine family members so everyone in your household can live in harmony through mutual respect.

 

Sound too simple? Try it. Dogs LOVE to work for us. Rewarding them for a sit, wait, down with a food reward or a kind, "thank you," builds their desire to repeat the desired behavior. Building on this foundation over time creates a relationship between owner and dog many owners of problem dogs cannot imagine achieving.

Recognizing and meeting dogs' need to serve

Ruth Reynolds
November 2008

Our dogs are in our lives to teach us, delight us, entertain us and, in my home, to serve us. The latter is often the most elusive concept for many dog owners to grasp. Folks don't want to think of dogs as objects of servitude. Unfortunately, as a result, some dogs are not afforded their rightful partnership in a family.

In my search for a method or means of training and understanding canine behavior that fits ALL dogs in ALL situations I became acquainted with Dr. William Meisterfeld. In his development of The Philosophy of Psychological Dog Training, (PPDT) William Meisterfeld discovered that dogs possess:​

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Will to Power -- innate drive to facilitate survival

Base Nature -- predisposition to some sort of work or interest

Will to Serve -- innate drive to serve another species, human

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In the practice of PPDT, both submission under threat and aggression exercise and strengthen Will to Power. A cowering, timid dog is facilitating its survival and exercising its Will to Power as is a dog towering over or attacking a perceived threatening individual.

 

Base Nature is the dog's predisposition to do some sort of work or interest. Herding dogs herd. Pointing dogs point. Dachshunds dig etc. albeit sometimes only under the covers on the bed.

 

Will to Serve, the unique trait found in nearly all dogs, is an innate drive to serve another species, human. There is the occasional horse, pig, cat, monkey who saves its master's life. But the stories of dogs' devotion to humankind in this fashion are abundant.

 

When we accept that all dogs possess Will to Power and Will to Serve and we address dogs' need to serve by giving them ample recurring opportunities to do so, disharmony in relationships with dogs shifts to harmony. When we incorporate use of a dog's innate Base Nature, the results are most rewarding for trainer and dog.

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Simple jobs for dogs

Dogs serve humankind in many ways. Defining a job description for their dog is challenging for many owners. Nevertheless, dogs need to understand their job description in order to do it well.

Bored, naughty, and sometimes even neurotic dogs, transform into satisfied companions of proud owners when a well defined, practiced and rewarded role of helpmate is:

  • clearly defined by the owner

  • within the dog's mental and physical capabilities

  • clearly understood by the dog through training with mutual respect


On my farm and in my home, my animals are engaged for a few moments of undivided attention when I'm with them. They each know a trick or two and are asked to show me what they know. Acknowledging them in this way develops and continues our relationship of mutual respect and communication. It develops their servitude in a way they love--- one -on-one attention and reward.

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Their "work" primarily consists of two jobs. The first is, facilitating the ease of my work by being with me in the right place at the right time so as to not impede my progression through my day's activities. The second is, using their enhanced senses to detect changes in our environment and alerting me to them through letting me know of comings and goings of others and perceived dangers. In exchange I attend to their need as individuals to be acknowledged as unique, special, and smart for jobs well done. There is no need for incessant behavior because their job well done is acknowledged.​​

In general a respectful animal is that way because he/she has been rewarded for desired behavior. Likely he/she has also behaved in an unacceptable way a time or two and has been shown a different way to behave that brings about better rewards. When we allow a dog to be rude repeatedly, we assure the dog its privilege to be mindlessly disrespectful. When we don't teach the dog and reward him/her for desired behaviors, we find ourselves repeatedly "correcting" or "pointing out" misbehavior, neither of which is constructive on a repetitive basis.​

One case involved Ginger and her dog, Spike, who barked excessively. Spike barked because he thought Ginger was oblivious to things going on in their surroundings to which he felt she should reacting.

   Once Ginger

  • realized Spike barked for a reason real to him

  • developed skill in deducing what triggered Spike's alerts

  • acknowledged to Spike she perceived what he was telling her

  • showed Spike she had things under control by attending to the matter of concern

   Spike's excessive barking diminished considerably.

 

Sometimes attending to the matter of concern involved teaching Spike that something he feared need not be feared, for example, a new piece of patio furniture. Other times Spike needed reassurance that Ginger simply knew the blue jays were fighting again at the bird feeder. Part of Spike's Base Nature was to observe and alert. Once Ginger understood this, she developed a new appreciation for Spike.

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Another case involved my client, Maryjane, who identified several undesired behaviors in her dog, Boinky, and chose this one to change first.

Boinky chose to lay in Maryjane's pathways in their home. When I pointed out he did this so she couldn't pass by him without his knowing about it, Maryjane's reaction (ahhhhhh) clearly indicated that Boiky was getting many mixed signals from his owner. Cute AND annoying AND out of control--that was Boinky.

Maryjane taught Boinky on leash to move away from her while standing. By Maryjane's using the term "Beep beep," and then bumping into Boinky so he would move, Boinky learned to direct his attention to Maryjane and immediately move out of her way when he heard, "Beep beep." Eventually he avoided being in her way by choosing to lay nearby but not in her traffic pattern.

Developing a heightened sense of awareness of the welfare of others is something kind people do. It's something kind dogs do. Teach your dog to be kind to you by giving him the opportunity to know what he can do to facilitate the ease of your life with him. Other things to teach include: "off" which means keep four feet on the floor, "wait" and "gentle".

Consider your dog's innate need to serve. Should you choose to embrace this concept, it is likely to change your life with dogs in a very positive way.

Nothing in life is free ~ leadership without confrontation

Whether you call it "Nothing In Life Is Free" (NILIF) or "Work to Earn", or "Say Please", the basic premise of these protocols is the same. It is a non threatening behavior program designed to teach your dog that you are the one to make all the important decisions in his life. This is not a one shot quick fix to all behavior issues, but it provides a strong foundation with regard to the dog/human relationship and successful behavior management. If NILIF is started at an early age, unwanted pushy and rowdy behaviors can be avoided and you will have a well mannered happy dog.

​

Dogs need and want structure from a leader. However, dogs must understand and accept that we humans are the leaders and we make all the social decisions in the house. If no boundaries are set, if there is no direction or discipline from the human, the dog will assume the leadership role. Dogs don't perceive their unruly behaviors as inappropriate. Once in charge, they may possibly (more probably), discipline the way they know best: with their teeth.

If we choose to live in the company of dogs, we need to establish effective communication. In order to do this, we must translate our rules in a way that makes sense to the dogs so they understand what we want.

N.I.L.I.F is a *leadership without confrontation* behavior management program. This training program teaches your dog to trust and respect you without out turning your relationship into a boxing match. More importantly, your dog learns to rely upon you and trust your judgment for their safety and as a result, your dog will be less stressed. We love and care for our dogs. We have the right to ask for social deference from them. This is all accomplished by teaching a simple obedience request such as "sit".
 

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Getting started

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In order for your dog to receive any privilege, he must learn to say "Please". The way for your dog to ask "please" is having him offer a simple obedience task.

For example, if you are on your couch and your dog wants to sit with you, have your dog sit first and hold it approximately 3 seconds. If he jumps up with out asking permission, escort him off the couch. Ask him to sit. You sit on the couch while he is holding your sit request. Now invite him up. Eventually, you wait for him to offer a sit voluntarily. His reward for complying can be anything from sitting beside you on the couch or a life reward such as his food bowl, a favorite toy or running off to chase birds.

Practiced routinely, your dog will learn to ask permission (by sitting first) before receiving anything from you; food, treats, a pat on the back, a belly rub, a bowl water, putting on a leash, taking off a leash, before you open the car door, before

​he gets brushed, going in/out of the house, before being permitted to hop up on the bed, chair or sofa.It may sound simple. It is! More importantly, dogs comply because they are rewarded for their behavior. Consistency is important. Anyone and everyone who interacts with the dog must request the dog to be "polite" and say "please".When you offer real life rewards that are very meaningful (going to the park, receiving dinner or just a ride in the car) you will be amazed how quickly your dog "gets it" and you will see changes in his behavior and his manners as a result of learning to ask "permission.

 

Helen Hollander, CPDT
The Educated Pup, LLC
Lawrence, L I, NY
Nationally Certified Member Certification Council of Pet Dog Trainers

"Butter Boy" - A Barney Tail continued ...

Article by: Michelle and Jay Larson, East Hampton, CT
Butter Boy's story originally appeared the the March 2011 Issue of the "BernerBlatt", The Newsletter of The Bernese Mountain Dog Club Of Nashoba Valley
Many thanks to the Michelle and Jay Larson and to the "BernerBlatt" editor, Susan Morrill, for granting their permissions to post the story.

​

Barney-12.jpg

As you may have read in the January issue of the Blatt, in August of 2005 we agreed to foster and teach Barney good living/behavior habits so he could be placed in a new home. He had recently come into the Bernese Mountain Dog Club of Nashoba Valley rescue program through the help of many friends.

It was only supposed to be a month of training and then Rescue would find him a home...
but time went by and no one was interested in a dog who was very shy with strangers but was pushy at home with his mom and dad. Especially a dog who would "counter surf" any time food was left on the counter or table.
So we decided to provide him with his forever home and give him all the special needs training and love he would need to be a happy, normal dog.

​

After a while, we started noticing that food was disappearing off

​the counter.
Very special things like the leftovers from the restaurant that you were really looking forward to eating for lunch or...pizza...broccoli...steak...sandwiches...cheese...BUTTER. I was cooking hamburgers in a pan on the stove on low and went outside for a few minutes. I would come back in and the pan was empty. I would wonder if I forgot to put them in the pan and was frying air! But nevertheless, no, I wasn't loosing my mind, the imprints of the burgers gave Barney away.

Being a professional dog trainer, I decided I would do what I always suggest to my students: use prevention and management techniques. Don't allow him to make a mistake because it can get highly reinforced. So my husband and I decided we would be very careful and not leave anything on the counters/tables when we couldn't watch him. Gradually, if he didn't have access to the food, the habit would become "extinct" and would die off after a period of a few months. Well, that worked well up to a point, but if the phone rang and you turned your back for a minute, he'd be right there....he was learning: "Gee this is great, these humans aren't perfect.....when no one is watching I can....."

So one sure thing I knew about dog training is this, if one method doesn't work, try another one.

That led us to Phase II which involved letting the environment correct him.
I tied some aluminum soda cans together with some string about 6" apart from each other and at the end I tied a Nylabone with a little whiff of peanut butter spread on it. The whole affair was left on the edge of the counter while I disappeared into another room. He took the bait and down came the soda cans making quite a ruckus. I popped my head into the room and said, "What happened? Those cans don't like you stealing the food!" That worked for a while, but then he got used to the noise and still pressed his luck. I thought about using pot lid covers instead of soda cans, but he was a little sensitive and I didn't want to totally traumatize him.

Okay, it was time to go to Phase III: teach him about the Stock Exchange Market or more preciously, the Trade Program.
By this time (6 months later), he was getting a lot better and leaving mostly everything alone. There was one major weakness left though, which he could not resist....BUTTER.

I started by holding a small, dry dog biscuit in my right hand at nose level, right in front of him. He soon learned that as soon as he stopped touching/licking that hand, he would get a click with the clicker and a much higher value treat with the other hand. Once he was leaving the food alone as soon as I held the food in front of him, I started adding the word, "Trade" just as he was starting to stay off the dry biscuit. Okay, good, we're now communicating in English. Next step was to increase the duration, so I started counting once he stopped touching the food....5 seconds....10 seconds up to 30 seconds. Good, now we can increase the value of the food we hold in front of him--slowly to: moist dog treats, potato chips, crackers, cereal, omelet, steak, pork, cheese etc. to BUTTER....yeah!

He left it alone because I gave him something better from the other hand...peanut butter.

It was all well and good that he would leave it alone with me right there in front of him, but now we had to generalize it.
That was quite simple and fun. We would go through all the steps again, but we would set up a "course" of at least 3 paper plates on the floor.
We put him on a lead and walked him up to each plate, said, "Trade" and waited until he looked up at me. When he did, the clicker went off and he got a higher value piece of food than what was on the floor.

The last step was to put the desirable food where he would normally find it and practice the same thing at first on lead, then off lead.
Things went very smoothly and quickly. Actually, it sounds like a lot of work, but he started getting the hang of it in just about a week's time.

Then, one day, I really knew the training paid off and he actually understood....Barney had taken a quarter stick of BUTTER off the counter and brought it to me in the other room so we could TRADE!

That's what he now does with other items too....the remote control, the cell phone, winter boots etc.

Yaaaay, Barney the Butter Dog---we love you!!!

Michelle and Jay Larson, East Hampton, CT

Canine good citizen (CGC)

Bernese Mountain Dogs are big dogs that require training so that they become manageable, reliable, predictable companions both in the home and in public places. Attending a Canine Good Citizen class to learn ways to train dogs is a great way for Bernese Mountain Dog owners to help their Berner learn how to behave appropriately towards other people, dogs and in situations the dogs find themselves in during the course of their lifetimes.

General info at AKC
https://www.akc.org/products-services/training-programs/canine-good-citizen/

(***Please note - CGC classes may vary - this explanation of a CGC training class represents a general outline based on information provided by the AKC. Number of CGC Class sessions offered may vary from 6 - 10 weeks. Age of dogs participating in CGC Classes and specific conditions for participation in CGC Classes vary. Please check with the Class Instructor or Dog Club offering the CGC Class to learn about requirements for participation. You may be asked to provide evidence that your dog has received vaccinations and/or fecal testing.)

​

Skills taught in CGC classes
1st session

  • Introduction to the class and introducing people and their dogs. The instructor will talk about class rules-responsible dog ownership-cleaning up, etc. The instructor will talk about their philosophy of training (e.g., will the class participants use food lures, clickers). The instructor will assist owners with selection and fitting of training collars. You will meet and greet dogs (petting, ears and feet). There will be a demonstration and practice 'walk' on loose lead; and start training for 'Sit'.


2nd session

  • The instructor will ask if class participants have any questions or problems with their dog during the week. There will be more interactive sessions with dogs including touching ears and feet, use of a brush or comb. There will be more practice and feedback on 'walking' on a loose lead; practice and feedback on sit. Demonstrations of 'sit/stay' and trying it. Demonstrations of 'down' and trying it. Start on 'Coming When Called'.


3rd session

  • The instructor will ask if class participants have any questions or problems with their dog during the week. New person (asst. or a student while you hold their dog) does meet, greet, brief groom. 'Walk'on a loose lead (one at a time with feedback). 'Walk by distraction dog' (can use other students at a farther distance and with necessary precautions). 'Sit and sit-stay; down and start down-stay'. Add time to sit-stay. 'Coming when called'.


4th session

  • Greet dogs as owners arrive-touch ears, feet, etc. The instructor will ask if class participants have any questions or problems with their dog during the week. You will be asked to walk your dog on a loose lead-closer to other dogs and near other people. You may be asked to weave in and out of people if the class participants are ready. You will be asked to show that your dog can sit. Sit-stay: add time and distractions. Down and down-stay with added time and distractions. Start on Supervised Separation. You may be asked to hold dogs of others. Coming when called-can be done on leash or long line.


5th session

  • You and your dog will have been introduced to all skills. Work on problem areas. Add more difficult distractions, add time to stays. Start of dog owners moving away from their dogs on the stays (up to this point you may have been stepping out in front.) Add distance to come. (Use long lines for safety).


6th session

  • Continue to work on problem areas. Your dog will be asked to be reliable at increasing distances, handle added distractions, working in different locations and under a number of different formats for performing the exercises.


7th session

  • By now dogs should be going out the full 20-ft. on the stays, out 10 ft. for come. Dogs should not be jumping on distraction dog and should tolerate the touching of their ears and feet. Review and work on any problems.


8th session

  • GRADUATION Show off your dog's new skills and training!


You will need to offer practice opportunities to your Berner so that he or she can learn to reliably perform the exercises you are taught in the CGC class sessions.
Plan to take a few minutes each day between class sessions to work with your dog.
Learn to recognize times when your dog responds positively to training work. (Do not attempt to work with your dog when he or she is tired.)
Keep training sessions short - under 5-10 minutes so your Berner does not become bored or uncooperative.

 

Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler.

Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility.

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog.

Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places.

Test 6: Sit and down on command and staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers).

Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler.

Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations.

Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners.

Equipment
All tests must be performed on leash.
The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.

Encouragement
Owners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test.

 

Upcoming CGC test schedule

https://www.apps.akc.org/cgc-evaluator/

​

The Canine Good Citizen ~ Every Dog Can Be One
Authors - Jack & Wendy Volhard
Summary - Train your dog to pass the AKC Canine Good Citizen Test.
The exercises are good for general training. Book includes detailed information on utilizing your dog's drive instincts.

Table of Contents

About the Authors
Acknowledgments
Foreword
Introduction
1. Why a Canine Good Citizen?
2. What Is a Canine Good Citizen?
3. What Happens When?
4. Understanding Your Dog.
5. Stress and Your Dog
6. Sit! Down! Stand! Stay!
7. Out for a Walk
8. Coming When Called.

9. Training with Distractions
10. Taking the Test
11. Summary of Exercises
Glossary
References for the Motivational Method
Bibliography
Index

This book is available at Barnes & Noble and Amazon
There are many similar books available through a number of vendors.

Therapy dogs ~ working Bernese Mountain Dogs

Article contributed by Brenda Sanders, Certified Evaluator, Therapy Dog Intl.
Brenda has actively pursued training her own and other's dogs to do therapy work. In so doing she has provided inspiration for Bernese Mountain Dog owners as well as an invaluable service to the public and canine communities at large.

 

Therapy dogs, as opposed to Service Dogs, provide short-term emotional support. Many opportunities exist for sharing your dog with others, including visiting nursing homes, hospital children's wards, mental health centers, hospices and schools. Berners are a good breed for this work because of their innate gentleness and "huggability".

​

While many people visit such institutions with their dogs on an informal, individual basis, there are definite advantages to being certified. First, your dog will have been tested and evaluated by a third party. Many people are so anxious to volunteer they cannot recognize their particular dog may not be suited for this work. Secondly, the certifying organizations provide insurance for you when you visit. Even the gentlest dog may push over a small child or break fragile older skin. Many institutions will no longer allow canine visits without proof of such insurances.

To become certified with either TDI or Delta Dog, you and your dog must pass a test given by a Certified Evaluator of the

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organization you select. The test is an adaptation of the AKC Canine Good Citizen Test and includes: walk on loose lead, sit and down on command, stay, come when called, reaction to another dog, reaction to sudden noise and movement, sit politely for petting, accept grooming and supervised isolation. At various points in the test, wheelchairs, canes, crutches and walkers will be introduced. For Delta Dog certification, the handler must also pass a written test, questions based on a handbook provided by Delta.

 

Both organizations stress that Therapy Dog or Pet Partner is not a title. Dogs who pass the testing, but never provide the service are not therapy dogs.

​

For more information:

Therapy Dog International, Inc.
88 Bartley Road,
Flanders, New Jersey 07836
Tel: (973) 252-9800
Fax: (973) 252-7171
email: therapydogsinternational@gmail.com

Pet Partners (formerly Delta Society)
345 118th Ave SE, #100
Bellevue, WA 98005

Having a show dog

If you think you might be interested in showing your Berner in AKC Conformation the first step is to talk with the breeder of your dog. Many Bernese breeders participate in AKC events and can advise you about the best ways to get started in conformation showing. A breeder's advice can save you time and money. Your Berner is 'perfect' in your eyes, but many novice owners are not well equipped to evaluate the qualities which make a dog a good candidate for showing in AKC conformation shows. Ask your dog's breeder to take a look at the dog prior to the time you plan to enter him/her in an AKC conformation show. The breeder should be able to evaluate your dog and let you know if they believe the dog possesses the characteristics that judges will appreciate and award. Whether participating in or attending a dog show as a spectator, there is much to be learned about the variable qualities Bernese possess.

AKC's Beginner's Guide to Dog Shows and AKC's Getting Started Showing are a good places to begin if you are new to the world of showing dogs.

​

AKC Dog Shows ~ placements and awards
In conformation shows, judges evaluate and award placements/ribbons to dogs entered in the show according to how closely a dog conforms to the Breed Standard. If you are not sure about what kind of characteristics and qualities Berners should possess as they are described in the Bernese Mountain Dog Breed Standard see the pictures contained in the Berner Illustrated.

Advice and tips
Bernese Mountain Dogs come in many shapes, styles and sizes. Each judge brings a unique perspective to evaluating and awarding dogs. Winners one day may not win the next day under a different judge or if shown in a different group of dogs. That's dog showing! But do keep in mind if you hope to win awards, a well bred Berner that is likely to be competitive in AKC conformation events has the body structure and style that compliment the work for which the dog was bred. In the case of the Bernese, the standard describes a dog capable of performing a variety of tasks, a balanced dog intended to function as a working companion animal. The quality of coat and symmetrical tri-colored markings add to the breed's functional purpose and aesthetic appeal. The standard also describes the temperament of a Bernese. Bernese should appear as alert, steady, calm and workable companions.

​

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Owner, breeder, handler Bobbi Kinley-Blewitt (Adessa Bernese Mountain Dogs)
and her Berner 'Char' having fun at the Eukanuba Dog show.

The sport and sportsmanship

Winning in the show ring is only a small part of dog shows. Whether showing a puppy, an adult dog or a veteran, the main thing is that dog and owner enjoy the show experience and HAVE FUN! For dog breeders, dog shows are about seeing groups of dogs and learning to recognize each dog's strengths and weaknesses with an eye to making breeding decisions that influence the qualities a breed will come to possess.

Novices ~ be prepared to train
Presenting a dog and showing the spectators and judge the dog's best qualities is not as easy as it looks. A foundation of training and presentation techniques is needed for those interested in participating in conformation shows. Local all breed clubs and private training facilities as well as Regional Bernese Mountain Dog clubs offer conformation classes and/or fun matches where novice handlers and dogs can polish their skills. Practice and offering exercise and physical conditioning opportunities to the dog you plan to show are two of the best ways to create a pleasant picture of your dog in the conformation ring.

Showing dogs not only requires that a dog and handler be well prepared. When making decisions about how to manage a dog's show career an owner must consider time and expense involved in entering and getting to and from events, whether their dog is competitive among the group of dogs currently being shown and how their dog is performing. Every owner will view things according to their own priorities.

Who handles (shows) the dog?
Options for showing include handling your own dog or hiring a professional handler. Professional handlers have established ways of doing business with their clients. Some pick up dogs ringside from owners while others keep the dog for the weekend or for many weeks or months while the dog is being shown. Should you choose to hire a professional handler, especially one that will take your dog on the road to dog shows, make sure that you have a clear understanding of how your dog will be living while in the handler's care.

Professional handlers often can achieve winning results more quickly than novice handlers because they have spent years learning how to present each dog they handle to accentuate the dog's strong points. But please keep in mind that the Bernese Mountain Dog's exceptional connection to their own people makes competently presented dogs working to please their owners an absolute joy to observe. There is nothing more satisfying to increase connection between dog and owner than when an owner chooses to prepare and present their own dog.

​

Books on showing
Born to Win (Craig Trotter)
Dog Eat Dog: A Very Human Book (Jane and Michael Stern)
Tricks of the Trade: From Best Intentions to Best in Show, Revised Edition (Pat Hastings)
Raising a Champion: A Beginner's Guide to Showing Dogs (A. Meredith John; Carole L. Richards)
About Dogs and Dog Shows (Stern & Stern)
Junior Showmanship from Hand to Lead (Miller)
Show Me! A Dog Showing Primer (Coile)
The Winning Edge (Alston)

The books can be purchased through Amazon.

Find Dog Shows
Check out the AKC's website for dog show events information; specifically look through events search.

Beginning a new tracking dog
By Anne Copeland with the Assistance of Ruth Rechtoris
 

This method was developed by a very good friend of mine (we've been tracking together since 1970) and used by her to start countless dogs in tracking and to successfully have handlers complete 36 TD's and 1 TDX (to date). It has been used for MANY breeds, from a Yorkshire Terrier to a Newfoundland, and for dogs from every one of the seven AKC groups so it is not breed specific. You can start a dog with this method from 8 weeks old to 10 years old(or more). It's how the 2nd Samoyed bitch in the history of the breed to earn a TD was trained, how my TDX Rottie was trained, how my Bernese Mountain Dog is being trained, and how Arlene's 4.5 pound TD Yorkie, Fergie, was trained.

You will need a non-restrictive harness (nylon will do just fine) with a D ring on the back for the line; a six foot lead to start and a 20 - 30 foot line later on; a cotton work glove or old leather wallet; bright plastic clothespins or wooden ones with a strip of surveyor tape or torn rag attached; a friend or family member for the first 2 or 3 times out (not essential but makes it much easier); an open area with ground cover between ankle height and your knees (if you can). You can start in lawn grass or weeds over your head if you must, but the medium length cover seems to make it a little easier for a beginning dog and gives you someplace to hide - as you will see a little later. If you want to get a little fancier - 4' stakes of wooden dowel or metal with one end sharpened to enter the ground easily will give you something to put your flags on when there are no high weeds or tree limbs near-by.

 

  • First rule - This is for FUN! If you get a title - great, but the important part is enjoying your dog.

  • Second rule - The dog knows how to and what it is smelling - you Don't -- TRUST YOUR DOG!

  • Third rule - Have FUN!

  • Fourth rule - Use GREAT TREATS for this - hot dogs, meat loaf, prime rib, stinky cheese -- stuff the Dog doesn't get other times. (Oops - I think my dogs typed that rule when I wasn't looking. But they're right, use the best treats when tracking.

  • Fifth rule - Have FUN!

  • Sixth rule - ALWAYS mark your track until the day you go for certification. You won't know if the dog is having a problem if you don't know exactly where the track goes and where the turns are. While the dog must solve the problem for themselves - you are a partner in this and need to know when to lend a hand by giving the dog a chance to do the solving. You will think you know that you made that right turn by the big clump of weeds and the skinny tree; until you are behind the dog and find that there are three weed clumps and two are near skinny trees and now you are confused - is the turn here and your dog is over-running it or is it really at the weeds that are still 10 yards away?

​

Ok, let's start a dog

​1. Put tracking harness with a six foot lead attached on the dog near (within 3 - 5 feet) the start of the first track. Have your helper hold the dog while you take several of your clothespin markers, the glove or wallet (the article), and some really great treats.

2. Leave the helper and the dog with a big fanfare and much fuss about leaving, show the dog the treats and that you have them, place a flag or stake at the starting point and scuff up the ground well with your feet before settling into a steady, normal walking pace for about 30 to 50 yards (for a dog the size of a Berner - a little shorter, 20-35 yards for a smaller dog). Place a

Tracking_Berner-Pat_Tacket.jpg

​clothespin flag about every 10 yards so your helper will know EXACTLY where you walked. Try to head INTO the wind the first time if you can, but it is not critical. Your track will be so fresh and so short, the wind will not yet be a major factor in the dog's working.

 

3. When you are within about 10 yards of the end of this first track, signal your helper to turn the dog around so it cannot see where you go now. Be sure the helper continues to watch you so they know when to start "tracking" with the dog.

4. Complete the length of track; lay down the article and pile several pieces of the treats ON TOP of it. Place a clothespin marker near the article drop so the helper will know this is where the article is - you might want to make this marker a different color than the rest.

5. With large steps, "jump off" straight ahead in the direction you have been heading for about 10 feet and either hide behind a near-by obstacle or lie down FLAT on the ground so you are not easily visible to the dog. Signal your helper to start after you.

6. The helper should now turn the dog around and make a big fuss about going to find you. They should say things like "Let's go find her/him" or "Let's find ----" or "Where's ---". The idea is to create enthusiasm for the "hunt". The dog should have a double incentive for moving along your path - to find you and to find those goodies!

7. The helper should keep the dog up short, no more than the leash length and as much on top of your path as possible. They should also be encouraging the dog with lots of "Good Puppy", "That's it - Find her/him". Especially loads of praise if the dog actually puts its head down and appears to be using it's nose to help find the way. Don't expect to see this behavior for the first few times you take the dog out, but sometimes they fool you!

8. When the dog reaches the article drop and finds the treats, you come out of hiding with lots of "Good Dog - you Found it!!", "Aren't you a smart puppy", etc. This is where we make absolute idiots out of ourselves to make the dog feel it just did the smartest thing in the world finding this glove/wallet with all those tasty goodies. If the dog does not appear to be stopping for the treats and wants to continue to where you are hiding - be sure the helper holds the dog up and points to the article and encourages the dog to go for the treats; in the meantime you will have gotten up and are joining in the celebration of finding the article.

9. The first time out we do this about 3 times (3 different tracks - can be in different directions just so as none of them cross each other) and they are at least 50 yards apart from each other. We then call it quits for the day. This may sound like a lot to remember, but after you do it once, you will find it very easy.

10. The next time out (we usually go once or twice a week, depending on our work schedule and the weather) increase the length of the tracks by about 20 - 25 yards if the dog seems to be getting the idea of looking for you; still doing three. Increase the track length in 20 - 25 yard increments per day, until the dog is going about 125 - 150 yards straight out and reduce the number of tracks to 2 at about 100 yards and 1 at about 150 to 200 yards on the following tracking days. After the second or third outing, if you can't get a helper to start laying tracks for you, you can work the dog yourself, by laying the track, jumping off at the end of the track for about 3 to 5 yards while the dog is either in the car or tied to a tree/fence/stake/etc. and circling back to start the dog. Continue to put your marker clothespins every 20 - 30 yards even if you lay your own tracks. You should still have the dog on a short leash and not let them get more than a leash length off the known track. While "head down" tracking is preferred, unless you are doing Schutzhund type work, it is not required that the dog track with a "deep nose", just follow the track, make the turns and find the article.

11. By the time the tracks are about 150 yards long, when starting the dog on a track, you need to let the dog get a good whiff of what they will be tracking - whether it is you or someone else who has laid the track. If your dog knows the down cue, have them "down" where the track starts (this should always be marked with a flag, or stake and flag). If the dog does not do a "down" this is NOT the place to begin to train this, just point to the ground instead where the track begins and tell the dog to "Find It". The reason for downing at the start is to give the dog an opportunity to get a really good dose of whoever's scent they must track.

TURNS
12. When the dog has done a few 150 yard tracks with relative comfort and is stopping at the article with the treats still ON TOP, usually the 3rd or 4th week, we "up the ante" by introducing an "open turn" - in other words one that is greater (more open) than 90 degrees. You can start with either a left or right turn depending on your tracking site; the dog will eventually learn to do both. We usually go out about 100 yards, place a marker, and make a quarter turn to either the left or the right about one or two yards past the marker, and continue on for about another 20 yards, drop the article, place the treats on top, and jump off the end as before.

13. Each time you go out now, make the turn a LITTLE sharper and alternate your turn direction, until the dog is doing regular 90 degree corner turns to the left and right. Don't increase the length of the track more than 10 or 20 yards until the dog indicates that turns are no problem. Many dogs never have an issue with the turn, they just follow the track, turn and all, like it was nothing new. Other dogs seem a little confused by the "loss" of scent when the track turns off. For those who need time to work out this problem, be sure you halt a little before the actual turn (the reason for making the turn AFTER the marker) so the dog on its six foot leash cannot go too far past the turn. Allow the dog to circle the turn area a bit so they can find where the track goes, and as soon as the dog heads off in the proper direction, follow and PRAISE, Praise, Praise.

14. As the dog demonstrates that it has the concept of following a scent trail with a turn to find some yummies at the end, increase the length of the second leg until the track is about 200 yards, add in another turn, best in the opposite direction from your first, and continue to add distance and turns until the dog is doing a track of 400 to 500 yards with four or five turns in it. By the time the dog is working about 200 yards with one or two turns, you can start using a longer line, but not the full 20 feet required in a test!! While training, I never give the dog more than 10 feet of line, I always mark the track, and after a couple of months, I start wrapping the treats in saran and placing them either INSIDE the glove or under the wallet so the dog must nose the article to get the goodies giving you a good article indication. It is OK if your dog is the retrieving sort and picks up the glove to bring it to you, but retrieval of an article is NOT required for AKC tracking.

15. Along the way, you will run into little (or sometimes BIG) problems - everyone does. But the thrill of watching your dog the first time that light bulb comes on in their head and they really put that nose down and pull you along the track - whether it is the first time you go out or the 50th time, is incomparable. There is a computer tracking list for those who really want to get into it, several tracking clubs around the US (not sure about other countries) and I'm always available to share what knowledge I might have. If you are interested in AKC tracking titles and tests, the rules are on the AKC's web page. I know that many European countries have tracking tests of some sort, but I'm not sure where to find information about them or their requirements. You don't need huge fields, you don't need pristine areas to work, your dog is always on a leash or line so you don't break most leash laws while doing this, and if you ever drop your car keys on a hike, or little Johnny wanders away from the campground, you just MIGHT just be able to put the dog to work for real!
 

There are many ways to train for tracking and many nuances of each way. The really important things to remember are Rules 1, 3, and 5, and that the dog knows how to follow a scent, we are just showing them what scent we want them to follow.

​

Happy trails to you!

Pat-Tacket_Tracking_Bernese.jpg

A freestyle primer
By Alison Jaskiewicz

Bernese-freestyle-dancing.jpg

The music begins. You and your partner flow into your choreography. Broadway? Ballroom dancing? No! This is Freestyle and your partner is your dog!

Canine Freestyle evolved in the early 90's as an artistic offshoot of obedience training. Add music, creativity, choreography and artistry to dog training and a new sport is born. Perhaps some of you are familiar with the Musical Kur or Freestyle of equine dressage? Canine and equine Freestyle share many elements, yet diverge to reflect the unique character and attributes of the different species.

Something For Everyone
In it's simplest form or definition, freestyle is a dog and handler performing to music. Since the mid 90s multiple organizations have defined Freestyle in different ways. Most consider Freestyle to be a celebration of a joyful working relationship between dog and handler. While the variety of styles can be confusing to a newcomer, there is a niche for everyone and much room for experimentation and exploration. The future of Canine Freestyle is still wide open. Many freestylers choose to entertain rather than compete. Freestyle is a fine addition to therapy visits and a wonderful way to introduce children to the joys of dog training. Consider giving Freestyle a try.

Freestyle = Training
Freestyle, like every other dog sport, is all about training. Freestyle offers the opportunity to share a vast array of trained skills, skills of your own choosing and your dog's choosing. Along the way you will discover and develop a wonderful interactive relationship with your dog.

Freestyle = Balance
Perhaps you have started training in basic obedience? Traditional obedience is one-sided because heeling is performed with the dog only on the handler's left side. Dogs actually develop different muscling patterns on their two sides due to one sided heeling. For Freestyle you will teach heeling on both sides, finishes to both sides, and, in fact, many different movements on both sides, and some in front and behind as well! If you started in agility you may already have a dog working both sides. Your dog will thank you because he will be more physically balanced and comfortable.

Freestyle = Movement
Freestyle is a celebration of movement with music. What movement, you ask? Any movement which is safe and enjoyable for your dog and, ideally, movement that best shares the character, personality and athleticism of your dog. Some frequently seen movements are backing, pivots, side-stepping, weaving, spinning, circling, crawling, bouncing, waving, bowing. Use your imagination. Watch your dog as he/she plays. You may notice movements unique and natural to your dog which you can then train to a cue. You will also begin to notice that every dog does each movement with their own style. Capture and develop that style, and your freestyle will become a unique celebration of each individual dog and your relationship with him or her.

Freestyle Music
You will find yourself honing your listening skills to unleash the potential of Freestyle choreography with music. Listen for melodies, instrumentation, themes and variations, and, particularly important, listen for the rhythm. The most effective Freestyle music is selected to match the natural trotting rhythm of your dog. Consider all the musical possibilities, from classical to contemporary, jazz to folk, instrumental and vocal. You will discover that your dog likes music! You will also discover that your dog has musical preferences! Skeptical? We all were at first, but when you first watch a dog 'choose' music you will be astounded. After you have found several pieces of music which match your dog's rhythm, play them one at a time while you heel with your dog. When your dog really likes a musical selection he will step higher, wag harder and sparkle with a new and delighted presence. Having a friend watch or running a video camera can help with this process, although you will be able to feel your dog sparkle and glow at your side as well.

Starting to Choreograph
When you are thoroughly familiar with the rhythms, instrumentation and patterns of your selected music and you have a good idea of the variety of movements your dog is capable of doing, you are ready to start to choreograph. Your goal is not to show every movement your dog can do, but to create an artistic, flowing, and compelling performance. Maintain a sense of space and direction. For instance, always choreograph with a clear idea of which direction is front, where your audience or perhaps your judges will be.

Now start to experiment with movement with your music. Perhaps move by yourself at first, imagining your dog and his movements, but plan to include your dog very soon. Only your dog can tell you how long it takes to perform a certain movement and whether it will work with the music or not. This is a team effort and you must include your partner. Your goal is to make him look his very best, maximizing his strengths and minimizing his weaknesses.

Balance stationary movements with ground covering ones. Balance slow movements with faster ones. Repetitions can be very effective in different locations so your audience can see and appreciate a movement from different angles. Or the same movement can be repeated at different speeds for a very different look. Stopping completely for several beats can be an effective accent, giving your audience a chance to catch up in a busy routine or building anticipation for a movement to come. The options are endless. Aim for smooth transitions and work with the music for maximum impact. An observant friend can offer valuable feedback.

Choices
As you are probably realizing, Freestyle is all about choices, choices of many kinds. Through Freestyle you can share your dog, his/her personality, character, training, athleticism and the joy, bond and relationship you share. Some people happen to like precise, dressage-like movement. Others prefer looser, more free form movement. Some prefer music without the distraction of vocals. Others always choose vocal selections. And choreography is a choice with every step, every change of direction, movement, tempo, energy and balance. This vast freedom of choice in Freestyle appeals to many, and yet, can also be intimidating or overwhelming to those more familiar with structured canine sports. The key is to doodle and experiment and if possible find some like-minded friends to explore this new sport with you. Visit the various websites listed below, join one or more of the Freestyle e-lists, ask lots of questions, find a class, attend some seminars, and enjoy the freestyle journey with your dog.

​

In Conclusion
Through Freestyle you will find great joy in training with your dog and the ultimate satisfaction of projecting the harmony and bond of your relationship to an appreciative audience. Much work will go into making a performance look effortless but words cannot express the feeling when you and your dog become one in thought and movement with music.

​

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​The currently existing North American Freestyle organizations are:

  • Canine Freestyle Federation, Inc. founded in 1995 (US)

http://www.canine-freestyle.org

  • Paws 2 Dance founded in 1999 (Canada)

https://paws2dance.com/

  • World Canine Freestyle Organization, Inc. founded in 1999 (US)

http://www.worldcaninefreestyle.org

  • Musical Dog Sport Association founded in 2002 (US)

http://www.musicaldogsport.org

​

Also see youtube Freestyle videos:

  • Alison and Figuero's Freestyle performance at the 2007 Bernese Mountain Dog Club of America National Specialty

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dqg_7UdXJpw​

  • Ruth Nielson and Tonca performing Freestyle at the 2008 Bernese Mountain Dog Club of America National Specialty

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbsIa_wgbXE

Teaching Hello, Heeling
By Vilma Kistner Briggs, M.D.
 

​So you think you might want to put a few obedience titles on your Berner? Great! What do you think is the hardest exercise to teach? Is it those amazing out-of-sight, sit and down stays, the mysterious scent discrimination tasks, or that silent signal exercise in Utility, 50 feet away from the dog? No. The hardest exercise to teach - and teach well - is teaching your dog to heel!

 

Poetry in motion versus where did he go?
Watching a good dog/handler team heel together is really like watching a dance. It is pure art in motion: the subtle cues to which the dog responds, the teamwork needed to maintain a perfect position as two beings move as one. It can be a beautiful thing.

At the other end of the extreme is what often happens the first time the leash comes off your dog in Novice obedience class - an embarrassing disaster! The poor dog completely loses all interest in Mom and wanders around the ring, sometimes following several feet behind the increasingly distraught handler. In some cases, the handler is no longer in view of the dog because he is busy checking out the sexy Poodles in the next ring or the kid dangling his hot dog over the ring gating. We have all experienced it and know that it is very lonely heeling alone in the middle of a very large ring with the world looking on.

 

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Learning the heeling dance
So how do heeling teams develop teamwork and learn the "dance" that is heeling? There are many methods that can work well, but most of them are variations on the same basic idea. Let me explain what has worked for me when I am working with a new dog learning basic heeling. This is how we learn the concept of working together, the concept of the dance.

What I am about to explain is how to get started on straight-line heeling, introducing the dog to the concept of maintaining the correct position at my left side, with active attention and eager focus. The other maneuvers of the heeling exercise must be taught as the individual skills that they are - before being incorporated into the rest of heeling: halt/sit, fast, slow, left turn, right turn, about turn.

Before we discuss specifics, let's begin by reviewing how the AKC defines heel position in its Obedience Regulations (p.18):
"The dog should be at the handler's left side straight in line with the direction the handler is facing. The area from the dog's head to shoulder is to be in line with the handler's left hip. The dog should be close to, but not crowding, its handler so that the handler has freedom of motion at all times."

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heeling1.jpg

Introduction to hello heel position ~ luring
I train my dogs to heel by using a food lure. In my experience using a food lure is the fastest, most efficient, humane, and simplest method. It will also hold up for long-term showing and campaigning if done properly with a solid foundation and when the dog is not taken into the ring too early.

The visible food lure is used to show the new dog the correct behavior that I want from him (i.e., trot along at my left side in heel position). Similar to how I train sit and down, I use the treat as a "magnet" for his nose - where the cookie goes, the nose goes, and where the nose goes the rest of the body cannot be far behind! The lure keeps the dog in the position where I want him to be.

​

I hold the large, visible, tasty treat right above his nose in my left hand, with my hand next to my left hip to position his head exactly where I want it. I start by taking only

one step forward. The dog must keep his head up and his eyes on that cookie. If he does that, then he gets the cookie and I release him. I repeat this sequence until he can come off the sit with his head up looking at the cookie reliably. Next, I increase the difficulty by asking him to take two steps with me before he gets the cookie. Then three, then back down to one, then three again. Please do not go from two steps to eight! That is unfair to the dog and he will end up dropping his head. Remember, your dog is not heeling if he is not looking at you. If your dog is looking at the ground, he is not heeling correctly. If that happens, one must stop immediately and make it easier for him to do the right thing.

Next, I hide the food from sight by holding it in my left fist at my left hipbone, close to my body. Over the next few weeks and months, the treat is gradually taken away. Do not remove the treat too soon or your dog will be confused and bored. Before removing the treat, the dog must understand that he is to keep himself in a certain spot next to me, while maintaining attention on his focal point. The focal point can be my left hand or hip, or my face, or left knee, depending on the dog's structure and size. At this point of his understanding, my cookie transforms from being a lure for moving him into the correct position, to being a reward for being in position.

When the treat is being used as a lure it is being used to show or teach the dog a new behavior. It is held in my left hand. When the dog has demonstrated that he understands what is expected, the treat is used as a reward when the dog performs the learned desired behavior. At that point, the treat is not visible to the dog. Although the treats (or toy) is out of sight, the dog knows that it is still accessible to him if he executes the desired behavior. It is important to wean the dog off the treat/toy or it would become a bribe rather than a reward. One should avoid inadvertently letting this happen.

​

Shaping ~ how to catch up if he gets lost!
The second part of teaching heeling is to SHAPE the behavior, so called "free shaping" or "pure shaping." In shaping one does nothing to create or force the behavior, but instead waits for the dog to offer very small increments of the desired behavior on his own. The handler marks the behavior with a clicker, giving a treat (reward.) Over time, the trainer requires more and more from the dog before the reward is given, until the desired behavior is established.

​

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I use shaping to teach behaviors such as dumbbell/glove retrieve, target touch and tricks (e.g., sit up, wave). This method is explained in Choose to Heel by Dawn Jecs (https://www.dogwise.com/choose-to-heel/). It is an older book but very good at explaining how to teach heeling using shaping only. (I attended a half-day seminar where she demonstrated heeling with a potbellied pig that she had trained.)

 

heeling4.jpg

Begin with a hungry dog that is off-leash in a safe enclosed area where you are the most interesting thing in the area. A ring about half the size of an obedience ring is a good size. Say nothing and give no commands. Start walking briskly around the ring, standing up straight as if you are heeling with an invisible dog. Walk around briskly in straight lines and in wide arcs and circles to left and right. Do not make sharp turns (i.e., do not make any about turns or left or right turns) as you would in a standard obedience ring. You should have very tasty, smelly, wonderful treats in your left fist. Good treats for this include baked liver, garlic hot dogs, pep-peroni, roast beef, or sharp cheddar cheese. Do not try this right after a meal because you want your dog to be highly motivated by the treats (and his hunger).

​

If you are shaping, I assume the dog already knows that the clicker marks the correct behavior and means a tasty treat is on the way. When you click, it is like taking a photograph - it captures the dog executing the correct or desired behavior, so timing of the click is very important.

Hold your clicker in your right hand. Briskly heel around the ring, by yourself, in big circles. As you start to get lonely and your dog begins to tire from sniffing the floor and wandering over the general vicinity near you, say nothing. Smile and click as you hand him a tasty treat. Immediately turn around and begin walking the other way. Eventually he should begin to wander over in your vicinity. Again, click and treat, turn and walk away briskly.

​

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Eventually you will start increasing your criteria for reinforcement, only clicking and treating when he is near your left side, then only when he is in perfect heel position for one step, then only when he maintains position for a couple of steps and finally when he heels a couple more steps.

Each time that you click-treat, you turn and walk briskly away again from him, pretending that you are trying to get away, so that he must fight to catch up to stay in heel position. Make him work to get into that "sweet spot"!

I don't use pure shaping exclusively to teach heeling, rather I like to do some shaping work with all of my dogs. Generally, I use it after I have shown them what heeling is, using a lure.

 

I occasionally break out and walk briskly away from the dog after I roll a treat on the ground to him, then of course generously reward him for catching up. I want the dog to know how to get into heel position from a position away from me while I am moving. You never know, in the obedience ring, what the dog will do if he loses attention for a couple seconds and winds up six feet behind you. I don't want him to get lost behind me, having had no practice at knowing how to get back to work. I want my dog to know how to catch up and start heeling again. This little trick can save you and your dog from a nonqualifying performance!

Teaching your Berner to do what he was born to do ~ drafting

Written by Gale Werth
originally published in the BMDCA's Newletter, 'The Alpenhorn', in October 1986.

My phone rings often from people wanting to get started carting with their Berner puppy or young adult. That phone time and cost could be better spent in other ways, hence this article. I have carting articles from the Newfie Club which I have given out for years but those articles are referring primarily to formal carting for a certificate.

My own aim here is to advise the novice dog or puppy owner how to get started having fun and add a new dimension to their lives and that of their Bernese Mountain Dog.

 

drafting 1.JPG

Carting commands are normal obedience commands used along with a few added ones. Prior to harnessing your dog to the cart you would put your dog or pup on a "stand-stay" so you could either harness him and drop the shafts over him or so that you could draw the cart up to him. You would also use "stand-stay" when finished as well so you could unharness the dog without him fidgeting.

"Let's go" or "Pull" works well in getting a dog to lead out and lean into the traces. Encouragement and enthusiastic praise along the way is a must. "Whoa" can be your halt word or choose whatever command you wish. You should not need any other commands except the word you

determine on for backing up with the cart such as "get back", "back" or "back up". This command can present problems in utility obedience but I won't take time here to cover that. Initially one should have a harness. Ideally as an adult the harness should be made specifically for a dog that size with added strap length to make adjustments for growth changes or another dog of approximate size.

Pups, however, and older pups need not have so specifically "their own" harness. I have a Siberian Husky non-adjustable harness which I use on pups from 20 - 45 pounds and it sort of self-fits. The strap under the tail gets rather tight on bigger pups and then I graduate to a larger home-made harness or an adjustable one.

Put the harness on the pup and let him wear it around enough so that he forgets it is on. Young puppies hardly know it is there in the first place, whereas older puppies need more acceptance time. Acceptance time might be 5 minutes or it might be 3 days of wearing the harness all the time, Generally a few moments is all that is required and then it is just a matter of getting the pup used to having it put on and taken off without rolling over on its back. That is where the obedience command "stand-stay" comes in.

​

You can prepare a beginner "cart" by punching holes in the front bottom outside corners of a cardboard box about 18" x 24". Take a cord of about 5 feet and run it thru the holes. Reasons for using cardboard boxes are 1) they are cheap and usually available; 2) they make relatively no noise; 3) they do not run up on the dog; and 4) they provide a sense of "something" behind without being completely distracting and frightening. Once a pup is accustomed to harness he easily can be harnessed to the cardboard box cart.

​

puppy drafting.JPG

The box itself should be some 5 feet from the rear of the dog to prevent it from frightening him too much. It will startle him when it moves, but head out at a brisk walk and disregard his fears and he soon will forget it is there, other than an occasional glance backwards. In the event the box bounces too much, put a light object such as a jacket in it, just to give the box some "pull" and keep it flat to the ground. Keep the chatter going and keep moving briskly. Treats can add to the fun, but don't rely on them to get the dog to move-use them as a reward as well as your voice after the dog has done what you wanted.

Use the command "Let's Go" or "Pull" each time you set out. As the pup gets familiar with the routine of harnessing and pulling I would vary the terrain a bit - first on the grass, then on gravel or cement-not necessarily in that order. Vary the routine with hills, buildings and distractions of other animals and kids. Give pup plenty of experience at each of the following levels before progressing to the next. If at any time you reach a problem, back off one or two, steps and begin again and build confidence.

(1) Harness; (2) box; (3) terrain; and (4) distractions.

Some dogs never get beyond pulling the "cart" with just a harness and line. Part of this might be from the fact that their owners don't want a cart or don't have a cart. It matters not, however, as the family and dogs still can enjoy the exercise, companionship and discipline that carting brings.

For winter fun and learning, children's round metal sliding saucers {often called snowflakes) are ideal and kids love rides. The flat plastic sleds are cheaper but break more readily and attaching the "line" to them encourages breakage. Saucers have several advantages over the flat plastic sleds or regular runner sleds. Due to their rounded bottoms saucers have the ability to go any direction easily and quickly-even backwards, whereas, runner type sleds only can go forward or make very slight turns. Flat plastic slides offer no handholds for kids and any "freight" would slip off immediately. I have used my saucer for hauling wood, kids and junk. It gives marvelous experience to the dog. Problems arise only when either going too fast and stopping suddenly or going downhill where the saucer can "run up" on the dog. The handler must be aware of such conditions and their possible consequences and learn how to avoid or prevent fearful experiences.

Spring and summer make us think a bit on how we can progress without significant expense, yet still get experience for our pups. If you have fooled around with pulling a lot you will more than likely wish to graduate to a real cart. They can be expensive but present a once only cost and you can easily re-sell your cart to other Berner people, should you decide to "up-grade" or quit for whatever reason. Set a - nominal price on the cart and it will trade hands quickly.

​

There are 3 major transitions which take place in the change over from pulling on a line to pulling a cart. They are as follows: 1) Shafts restrict free movement of dog; 2) Cart has more weight and feels different; and 3) Cart is generally noisier and presents the "chase" factor.

The first transition is by far the most difficult for the dog to accept. I have found an easy way of getting around the problem of getting dogs used to shafts. Understand that the shafts on a cart generally are finely affixed to the cart and often are not removable; hence it is difficult to give the dog a chance to get used to the shafts without the cart being part of the act. I devised a cheap and simple set of "training shafts" from two 4 ½’ foot pieces of flat wooden moulding. I drilled three holes each about 4 inches apart toward one end of each piece of moulding and threaded an 8-10 inch piece of light cord thru each hole. The other ends of the moulding were nailed to a 15" piece of 2 x 4.

The moulding strips are my shafts and I can attach them to the harness in whatever position I wish, using the cords to tie the moulding to the harness shaft loops. The closer the hole is to the end of the moulding, the farther back it will ride on the dog so it does not interfere as much with shoulder action. The 2 x 4 base piece acts not only as a connecter for the moulding strips, but it presents another pulling situation with something following the dog.

Once the dog accepts the shafts in the farthest back position with no hesitation, move the shafts up one hole, so the shafts reach farther forward. Work dog at this level until he shows no qualms about the shaft action. Be sure to do lots of turns, as that is where the hesitation or distress about shafts comes in, due to the restriction of the shafts. At such time as you feel you have done your homework with the harness, shaft and pulling training then you can think about a cart.

​

​You can build your own or you can purchase one. Ready-made carts seem to be better balanced than homemade carts and in some cases can be easily taken apart for storage and transport, which does eliminate some problems. Use your own judgment.

Preliminary to harnessing the dog to the cart itself, it is a smart idea to walk around the yard or driveway with the cart and the dog. Ideally someone else should pull the cart so the dog has to be between you and the cart-just for exposure to your cart's own peculiar noises. A preamble to this would be taking walks with the dog while pushing a stroller or pulling a wagon-it all aids in getting him used to wheels and noises which go along with wheels.

*1f no flat moulding available, door stop would work just as well.

​​​

The next step would be putting the dog on a stand-stay and dropping the shafts over the dog's back several times, so he understands what is going to happen. Be firm about the dog holding the stand-stay. After you have done the dropping the shaft bit a couple of times, attach the harness to the shafts and again drop the shafts over the dog and let the harness rest on the dog's back. Raise and lower the shafts

drafting 2.JPG

several times, each time ending up by resting the harness and thereby the balance weight of the cart on the dog's back.

​

At such point as the dog doesn't care-that is when you slip the harness over his head. As yet I would not fasten the belly band though - just encourage dog to move forward a couple of steps and you move the cart so it comes along.

Now is "Buckle Up" time! Ideally a second person will help at this point. The handler and the dog start off slowly with the second person (helper) holding the cart back so that it doesn't spook the dog. Move forward using a lot of encouragement. Helper may want a dog lead attached to the rear of the cart, so he can be farther back or not have to bend over but still have control. I, myself, prefer to hold onto the cart with my hands in order to slow it or even lift the cart around, so it is straight behind the dog, should the dog turn in the shafts or if you are working in a restricted area.

A long straight drive is what you would want, but in many cases we are in a ring or small area. Until dog is willingly pulling straight, don't expect turns to go well. Any assistance offered to begin with on tight corners will stand you in good stead later as the dog won't have a built-in fear of turns due to the tightness of the shafts against his inside shoulder from those first experiences of cart and comers.

Once the dog seems to be moving with his tail up and doesn't appear concerned about the cart behind him, you can dispense with the helper and move right out with the dog in a trot. BE AWARE that at times the dog will try to snug up to you and the shafts will hit you just behind the knee (and produce pain and beautiful bruises). If at any point you anticipate distress on the part of the dog, halt and discuss the matter and then head out again. After that it is merely a matter of exposure and gradually increasing weights. The acceptance time for a dog to handle the shafts is called ‘inspanning’ time and actually can and often will be only a matter of several minutes.

This article is not to be taken as gospel, but merely as a vehicle to give you several good ideas and suggestions on how to get started and widen the horizon you and your Berner have before you.

GOOD LUCK, ENJOY, AND HAPPY HAULING!

Gale Werth and Broken Oaks Berners

 

Other drafting with your Berner resources

Maintaining Behavior Health

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*Some slide images used in the original PowerPoint presentation have been replaced with 'like' images.

Slide images used in this presentation are best viewed at screen resolutions at or exceeding 800px X 600px. Others, mobile device users, for access to content - please see the print version PDF (7 megabytes).

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